IPM: Key Learnings

Integrated Pest Management - a planet-friendly way to manage the not-so-nice things that happen in our gardens.  IPM is a progressive process that starts with prevention.

What follows is for home gardeners.  If you're known for pulling out the artillery when a pest comes along (been there, done that, guilty as charged).... perhaps this information will help you become a kinder, gentler manager of your domain.  The steps below need to be done in the order shown.  Only go as far down the list as you need to until the problem is resolved - least harmful to most harmful.  Hopefully you'll never have to go all the way......

1. PREVENTION COMES FIRST.   Aim to prevent pest problems from starting. Buy strong, healthy plants and the right plants for the right location; proper nutrition/watering/care; appropriate soil conditions; plant rotations and the like.
2. IDENTIFY THE PEST.  Confirm the one you see is in fact the one doing the damage.  There may be other animals/insects/organisms in the area that are just passing through but not guilty of a crime.  Be sure you understand the lifecycle of the pest.... it may be at the end of it's damaging phase (caterpillar chomping on your leaves) and moving to a new phase that might be beneficial, so no need to do anything, the worst is over.
3. BE TOLERANT.  How much damage are YOU and the affected PLANT(S) able to tolerate?  Does the odd deer nibble warrant putting up an 8ft fence?  A few chewed leaves may not be compromising the overall health or appearance of the plant.   Is it really THAT serious?
4. GET PHYSICAL.  Seek a physical method for dealing with the problem.  Squoosh the slug or do what I do and stick'em - flick'em with a garden stake; prune out the leaves that have the aphids, or blast them off with the water hose; put up some sort of barrier, try mulching or setting out a sticky trap.
5. BIOLOGY BASICS.   Look for ways to introduce beneficial insects/animals.  You can buy lady bugs and praying mantis over the Internet and often find them in home improvement stores in the spring.  Try introducing companion plantings which bring in the good guys.   The Asteraceae family of plants (sunflower, daisy, asters, chrysanthemums etc) attract the largest variety of beneficial insects.  Got a deer problem?  Get a dog.
6. MICRO-MANAGE.   The microorganism Bacillus thurringiensis (B.t) focuses on a small range of insects and isn't harmful to humans, plants and other animals.  Three strains of B.t focus on different groups of bugs - find the right strain for the problem you're targeting.
7. NATURE'S CHEMISTRY CLASS.  Try insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils, or botanical insecticides like neem extract.  These products come in different strengths - find the gentlest one that'll take care of your problem. 
8. INTRODUCE INORGANICS.  Try fungicides and insecticides using sulfur or copper.  If you've got a slug problem, try putting down copper strips.
9. SMART ABOUT SYNTHETICS.  Only as a last resort, when all these other methods have failed, look for a synthetic pesticide.  Be a wise consumer and select one with the following characteristics wherever possible:  a) only targets the specific pest, b) does the least harm to the other plants/critters, c) is least harmful to the environment and d) is least toxic to apply.  

Here are a few websites / resources you might want to check out:

http://pep.wsu.edu/hortsense
Pick the pest, read up on how best to manage the problems it causes.
Pick the plant, read up on typical pest problems it experiences, and how to manage them.

http://gardening.wsu.edu/
HUGE database of pest problem Q&As.  Can't find the answer, submit your question and an expert will get back to you.

http://extoxnet.orst.edu/
Really curious about a specific pesticide product you already have, or are looking to buy?  Use this site to read the product label in detail, learn about active ingredient toxicity, and obtain material safety data sheets that discuss information NOT included on the label.

Integrated Pest Management
I saw this book on a few of the tables in class today..... seems to be a good reference on the IPM topic.  Thought you might want to add it to your own gardening library.

And finally, some points to ponder......

• Most plant problems are not caused by pests.  66% of plant problems are the result of us not knowing how to garden.... heh, as much as we may not want to admit it.....we're the pest!  
• Don't be fooled by pesticide labels with terms like "natural" and "organic" - they don't necessarily mean the product is safe.  Poisonous mushrooms are natural and botulism is organic, but they're not safe. 
• Hazard = poison x dose (exposure) + size/weight of individual.  So, a big hunking storage drum of Malathion in a warehouse down the road is less hazardous to you than a gallon of pesticide applied incorrectly on a lawn where children play.
• Look for the signal word on the pesticide label.  The three choices a product can have are "caution", "warning" or "danger".  These words apply to the percentage of active ingredient + inert (other) ingredients in the product.  "Caution" containing the least amount and "Danger" containing the most.   So, if you have products to choose from, aim for the one with "caution" on the label.
• Not all pesticide products are required to have the standard EPA label.  Some are exempt from these rules and for them, anything goes.  This 25b list is worth knowing about. 
• Think about it....... if the product you select requires you to deck yourself out in protective clothing and go through a regimented clean-up/disposal process, is that a good product to be buying?  Probably not.  There's a wide array of pesticides out there - more and more of them now able to to take care of your pest problem in a planet-friendly way.  Choose wisely.  Be a friend to your garden, your neighbors and this beautiful planet we call home.